Virginian Perry Edwin Ellis launched his brand of clean-cut American sportswear in 1978. Offering both menswear and womenswear, the label became synonymous with timeless all-American style. After Ellis.s death in 1986, Marc Jacobs served as lead designer of the brand for seven years in the mid-1990s, during which time he unveiled the widely influential "Grunge" 1993 fall-winter collection, which referenced the street style of Kurt Kobain and his fellow Seattle musicians. (The bold move.incorporating street style into a high fashion label.cost Jacobs his job.) Later the brand was helmed by Patrick Robinson, who is now creative director of Gap Inc.