There's simply no other way to describe the spring Versace show other than sexy. In previous seasons, Donatella Versace had toned down her house’s trademark sensuality, but this season she dished up dramatic gowns and seductress staples fashioned out of liquid, body-hugging materials in lush shades—that is, the kind of pieces that make die-hard Versace fans start panting.

While his show featured an illuminated backdrop of Versailles, Cavalli’s skipped over the grandiose picture Sofia Coppola painted in her Marie Antoinette film and focused on the carefree moments the queen spent indulging in pastoral romps. His long petticoat gowns, ’70s calico silk blouses, floral-stenciled trenches, and fringe-accented separates made for a breezily sensual look.

For spring, Matthew Williamson tinkered with Emilio Pucci’s iconic pastels, amping up the hues by applying them in bolder, wider swaths than usual. His exploratory mood brought him to the American West for inspiration, which helps explain his tinkering with tribal motifs, feathers, and fringe. The most dramatic results are suited to adventurous types who aren’t afraid to take a fashion risk.

To all those addicted to Muiccia Prada’s creations, beware—the designer takes us on a trippy ride for spring. Her ’70s-inspired collection is full of daintily psychedelic pieces including fairy-print dresses, plaid silk bell-bottoms, glam-rock knit jumpsuits, and dresses with meandering necklines. And of course there’s plenty of accessories to fixate on too, especially the multicolor heels with wavy or fairy-figurine heels.

The Moschino girl is known for her joie de vie. For spring, designer Rosella Jardini dressed her bouffant-coiffed models in playful knit suits, bow-accented coats, and bouncy skirts—fashioned out of ruffles, feathers, and even silk rosettes. If such whimsy strikes your fancy, you’ll love the house’s heart-shaped Lucite purses.

What’s not to love about the Missoni collection? Sexy-meets-sophisticated knits, party dresses covered in confettilike sequins, and Hollywood pool-perfect caftans appeal to a variety of tastes. And it doesn’t hurt that the soft hues and flowy cuts are flattering to nearly one and all.

For streamlined, artistic interpretations of the season’s top trends, look no further than Marni. In Consuelo Castiglioni’s thoughtful eye, watercolor print silks, colorblock gowns, and boxy blouses were distilled to the essence of cool simplicity. Chunky patent wedges, big bangles, and geometric-shape necklaces kept the ensembles from being bland—a styling trick that could be applied to any minimalist look.

The preshow soundtrack—which included Madonna and Justin Timberlake—set the mood for Just Cavalli's party-ready spring collection of African-inspired beaded tops, feather-trimmed skirts, and graphic animal prints. Blended in with his many cocktail looks were big bangles and oversize clutches. The latter could serve as a shield, lest you grow weary of pickup lines—which tend to multiply when wearing one of Roberto Cavalli’s flirty frocks.

The show was kicked off with a screening of David Lynch’s new Gucci perfume commercial, which reminded viewers that the house consists of so much more than just what’s shown on the runway. Spring added a new chapter to Gucci’s history of catwalk chic, one that focused on Barbie-style dresses and skirts—i.e., cinch-waist numbers with plenty of pouf—biker jackets, and streamlined plaid separates, all of which came with a layer ofrockabilly gloss.

Mighty Aphrodite indeed! Putting a sporty twist on her signature Grecian style, Alberta Ferretti turned out short dresses in draped silk jersey, two-color togas, and watery prints that resembled Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. The collection’s few refined flourishes—clusters of dark crystal accents that looked a bit like Julius Caesar’s crown—gave good reason to go Greek for spring.

It’s hard to say which piece of news from the house of Fendi generated more buzz: the fact that Fendi will present a runway show on the Great Wall of China next fall, that the Baguette bag just turned 10, or that Karl Lagerfeld introduced an unexpected silhouette for spring. The latter preoccupied the fashion set as the modest midcalf length—also seen in New York—became complex, many layered with flyaway skirts, wide-belts, graphic prints, and tiersof ruffles.

While technically the little-sister line to Armani’s blockbuster Giorgio line, the Emporio collection is more appealing to those who don’t have loads of red-carpet events in their datebook. The collection featured many of the designer’s flourishes tempered for the 9-to-5 world—including jaunty black-and-white check dresses, draped skirts, and long ladylike blazers—a series of sexy black sequined numbers seemed to suggest that working girls should have a wild night on the town from time to time.

Some designers have a few A-list pals sit in their front row; Dan and Dean Caten one-upped them all by having Rihanna walk in their spring runway show. While the siren proved to be the inspiration for the show—which like her new “Shut Up and Drive” video featured a body shop full of flashy cars and oiled-up boys—the flashy ’60s-feeling collection was geared toward the party-hopping set. The designers’ barely there dresses, perky shifts, and bedazzled caftans would make any event afestive occasion.

The Sicilian designers aren’t exactly known for being conservative, but for spring, the duo tempered their seductress styles with thoughtful arty accents. For day, the designers showed sculptural brocade minis and minimalist dresses in nearly transparent silk— just the thing to spice up the workplace instantly. The showstopper gowns—voluminous tulle constructions doused with colorful paint washes—made the biggest splash on the runway and would have the same effect on the red carpet.

The Burberry show opened with haircolor chameleon Agyness Deyn waltzing out with jet-black locks—the first surprise of many to be sent down the runway. The edgy English Rose, who had previously romanced Christopher Bailey, seemed to have been banished, and in her place came a feistier ’80s heroine. Spring’s sexy Burberry girl prefers clingy ruched dresses, bold lace-up coats, and the kind of studded belts and bags that epitomize tough luxe.